Step 1. Fill the socket cavity approximately half way with
silicone II (made by GE).
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Step 1(continued). Notice that we put slightly more compound
in the center.
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Step 2. Place the neoprene patch and rub it gently
to smooth the compound underneath. Be careful not to press
too hard to prevent making a dip into the compound. You
want a nice flat surface.
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Step 3. Seal the base of the socket with a bead of silicone.
Be careful to fill all the interstices. Smooth the
silicone with your wet finger (saliva works great).
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Step 3 (continued) . Here is how it looks like when
this step is completed.
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Step 3 (continued) - Another look at this step on a socket
adapter. Notice that we put less silicone under the locking
arm otherwise it wouldn't lock in place once the compound
is dry. Also notice that the space under the tabs has been
completely filled. This only applies if you
will be using the adapter with one of our MC1001,
MC2001 or MCW2000 coolers. For socket coolers, such
as the MC370 and the MCW370 water block, the silicone under
the tabs should be removed to allow the straps to properly
grab the tab, as shown in step 4.
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Step 4. Remove the excess silicone under the center tabs.
We use one of the straps that comes with our cooler. It
fits perfectly and removes only what is necessary. Don't
forget to clean up the strap once done!
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Step 4 (continued). This is how it looks once the silicone
has been removed from under the tab.
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| Step 5. Now is time to relax, and let the silicone
cure. The amount of time depends on the type of product you
use, and you should follow the manufacturer's instructions
in this respect. It is important to be patient here, otherwise
the socket will leak if the silicone has not cured enough. |
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Step 6. CPU preparation - We also lightly coat
the components underneath Intel® CPU's. This area is particularly
sensitive to shorts. It is critical to keep the coating
as thin as possible, otherwise the CPU will not sit flat
in the socket once the silicone has dried up it will interfere
with the neoprene gasket
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Step 7. To prevent condensation to occur inside
the socket pin holes, we fill it out with dielectric grease.
This flushes out the air inside the pin holes. It
does not interfere with the contacts between the CPU pins
and the socket.
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Step 7 (continued) - Push the grease inside the holes with
your finger
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Step 8 - Insert the CPU, and finish off sealing it to the
socket with a bead of silicone all around the edge.
Notice how the locking arm is now completely encased in
silicone.
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Step 9 - This last image shows the MCW370 water
block installed in an Asus A7V motherboard. The entire base
of the cooler is completely encased in a generous coat of
silicone compound. Overkill ? not if you consider that we
have measured temperatures of -25C on Intel® CPU's at idle.
Over a prolonged period of time, the edge of the CPU which
is normally exposed to air would be covered with condensation,
which could eventually drip down onto the motherboard. We
need to emphasize that this final step is not necessary
for our MC370-3 and -4 coolers. They do not generate
enough cold to create condensation on the edge of the CPU.
Only the water block has sufficient cooling power to justify
such extreme measures. An alternative solution to siliconing
the edge of the CPU is to install a mini blower on the chipset,
with the air flowing towards the the base of the socket.
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Step 10 - Consists in spraying the back of the motherboard
with a generous coat of conformal coating. Again, this step
is only warranted if you use our MCW370 water block. We
spray approximately 3 inches all around the back of the
socket area. Cold will travel through the socket and spread
to the motherboard. This ensures that any condensation that
might form there will not cause any damage.
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Step 11 and final - Once the conformal coating has cured,
stick the neoprene patch provided with our cooler immediately
behind the socket. This will insulate completely the back
of the socket area, which is most exposed to cold and
therefore subject to condensation.
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